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sport and outdoor pursuits |
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No matter where you are in Britain, you're never far from a stretch
of countryside where you can lose the crowds on a brief walk or cycle
ride. For tougher specimens, there are numerous long-distance footpaths,
as well as opportunities for the more extreme disciplines of rock
climbing and potholing (caving). On the coast and many of the inland
lakes you can follow the more urbane pursuits of sailing and windsurfing,
and there are plenty of fine beaches for less structured fresh-air
activities or just slobbing around
Walking and climbing
Walking routes trace many of Britain's wilder areas, amid landscapes
varied enough to suit anyone. More sedate walkers will be happy enough
in England, where many of the footpaths traverse moorlands, but if
you're after more demanding exercise, or a feeling of isolation, head
for Wales or Scotland. Welsh Snowdonia and the Scottish Highlands offer
Britain's best climbing and have acted as training grounds for some of
the world's greatest mountaineers.
Numerous short walks and several major walks are covered in the guide -
however, you should use these notes only as general outlines and always
in conjunction with a good map . Where possible we have given details of
the best maps to use - in most cases one of the Ordnance Survey (OS)
series - along with advice, leaflets and specialist guidebooks from
tourist offices and shops in walking areas. In England and Wales you
need to keep to established routes as you'll often be crossing private
land, even within the National Parks: all OS maps mark public rights of
way. Scotland, in contrast, has a tradition of free public access to
most of the countryside, restricted only at certain times of the year.
At the time of writing, some footpaths were closed as a precaution
against the further spreading of the Foot and Mouth epidemic. For the
latest on this situation, contact any local tourist office or one of the
companies we've listed.
Cycling
Although there has been a boom in the sale of mountain bikes and a rise
in the number of towns and cities that have incorporated designated
cycle routes into their traffic schemes, cyclists tend to be treated
with disrespect by many motorists. British cyclists are estimated to be
twelve times more likely to be killed or injured on the road (per miles
cycled) than their counterparts in Denmark, where a network of safe
cycle paths and traffic-calming schemes has been created, although the
organization SUSTRANS is attempting to go some way towards addressing
this problem.
Surprisingly, cycle helmets are not compulsory in Britain - but if
you're hellbent on tackling the congestion, pollution and aggression of
city traffic, you're well advised to get one. You do have to have a rear
reflector and front and back lights when riding at night, and are not
allowed to carry children without a special child seat. It is also
illegal to cycle on pavements (sidewalks), and in most public parks. A
secure lock (preferably some kind of "D" lock) is also indispensable and
it's always a good idea to make a note of your frame number in case you
have to report a theft to the police.
Bike rental is available at cycle shops in most large towns, and at
villages within national parks and other scenic areas; the addresses and
telephone numbers of these appear in the relevant sections of the guide.
Expect to pay in the region of £10-20 per day for something sturdy, with
discounts for longer periods.
Beaches
Britain is ringed by fine beaches and bays, the best of which are
readily accessible by public transport - though of course that means
they tend to get very busy in high summer. For a combination of decent
climate and good sand, southwest England is the best area, especially
the coast of north Cornwall and Devon. The beaches of England's southern
coast become more pebbly as you approach the southeastern corner of the
country - resorts round here are more garish than their southwestern
counterparts. Moving up the east coast, the East Anglian shore is
predominantly pebbly and very exposed, making it ideal for those who
want to escape the crowds rather than bask in the sun, while right up in
the northeast there are some wonderful sandy strands and old-fashioned
seaside resorts, though the North Sea breezes often require a degree of
stoicism. Over in the northwest, the inland hills of Cumbria are a
greater attraction than anything on the coast, though Blackpool has a
certain appeal as the apotheosis of the "kiss-me-quick" holiday town.
Many of Scotland's beaches and bays are deserted even in high summer -
perhaps hardly surprising given the bracing winds and icy water. Though
you're unlikely to come here for a beach holiday, it's worth sampling
one or two beaches, even if you never shed as much as a sweater. A rash
of slightly melancholy seaside towns lies within easy reach of Glasgow,
while on the east coast, the relatively low cliffs and miles of sandy
beaches are ideal for walking. Despite the low temperature of the water,
the beaches in the northeast are beginning to figure on surfers'
itineraries, attracting enthusiasts from all over Europe. Perhaps the
most beautiful beaches of all are to be found on Scotland's islands:
endless, isolated stretches that on a sunny day can seem the epitome of
the Scottish Hebridean dream.
In Wales the best areas to head to for sunbathing and swimming are the
Gower peninsula, the Pembrokeshire coast, the Llyn and the southwest
coast of Anglesey. The southwest-facing beaches of Wales offer the best
conditions for surfing, key spots being Rhossili, at the western tip of
the Gower, and Whitesands Bay near St David's. Windsurfers tend to
congregate at Barmouth, Borth, around the Pembrokeshire coast and at The
Mumbles. Though the north coast has more resorts than any other section
of the Welsh coastline, its beaches are certainly not the most
attractive and nor is it a good place to swim.
It has to be said that Britain's beaches are not the cleanest in Europe,
and many of those that the British authorities declare to be acceptable
actually fall below EU standards . Although steps are being taken to
improve the situation, far too many stretches of the coastline are
contaminated by sea-borne effluent or other rubbish. For annually
updated, detailed information on the condition of Britain's beaches, the
Good Beach Guide (£3.50), compiled by the Marine Conservation Society (tel
01989/566017, ), is the definitive source.
Golf
There are over 400 golf courses in Scotland , where the game is less
elitist, cheaper and more accessible than anywhere else in the world.
The game as it's known today took shape in the sixteenth century on the
dunes of Scotland's east coast, and today you'll find some of the oldest
courses in the world on these early coastal sites, known as "links". If
you want a round of golf, it's often possible just to turn up and play,
though it's sensible to phone ahead and book, and essential for the
championship courses. It's worth asking at the tourist office for the
Golf Pass Scotland which will give you a discount on courses for either
three or five days. Prices vary according to area.
Public courses are owned by the local council, while private courses
belong to a club. You can play on both - occasionally the private
courses require that you be a member of another club, and the odd one
asks for introductions from a member, but these rules are often waived
for overseas visitors and all you need to do is pay a one-off fee. The
cost of one round will set you back between around £10 for small, nine-hole
courses, up to more than £40 for eighteen holes. Simply pay as you enter
and play. In remote areas the courses are sometimes unmanned - just put
the admission fee into the honour box. Most courses have resident
professionals who give lessons, and some rent equipment at reasonable
rates. Renting a caddy car will add an extra few pounds depending on the
swankiness of the course you are playing.
Scotland's championship courses , which often host the British Open
tournament, are renowned for their immaculately kept greens and
challenging holes, and though they're favoured by serious players,
anybody with a valid handicap certificate can enjoy them. St Andrews (tel
01334/466666, ) is the top destination for golfers: it's the home of the
Royal and Ancient Golf Club, the international controlling body that
regulates the rules of the game. Of its six courses, the best known is
the Old Course, a particularly intriguing ground with eleven enormous
greens and the world-famous "Road Hole". If you want to play, there's no
introduction needed, but you'll need to book months in advance and for
the Old and the New Courses have a handicap certificate - handicap
limits are 24 for men and 36 for women. You could also enter your name
for the daily lottery - call before 2pm on the day you'd like to play.
One of the easier championship courses to get into is Carnoustie , in
Angus (tel 01241/853249; £75), though you should still try and book as
far ahead as possible; a handicap certificate is required - 28 for men
and 36 for women. Other championship courses include Gleneagles in
Perthshire (tel 01764/662231; £100), Royal Dornoch in Sutherland (tel
01862/810219; £60) and Turnberry in Ayrshire (tel 01655/331000; £120).
Near Edinburgh, Muirfield (tel 01620/842123; £85; Tues & Thurs only),
considered by professional players to be one of the most testing grounds
in the world, is also one of the most reactionary - women can play only
if accompanied by a man, and they aren't allowed into the clubhouse.
Spectator sports
As a quick glance at the national press will tell you, sport in Britain
is a serious matter. Football, rugby and cricket are the major spectator
sports, and horseracing also has a big following, though a fair
proportion of its public has little interest beyond the Grand National,
the Brits' most popular opportunity for a gamble until the National
Lottery came along. The calendar is chock-full of one-off quality sports
events, ranging from the massed masochism of the London Marathon to the
Wimbledon championship, one of the world's greatest tennis tournaments.
For the top international events it can be almost impossible to track
down a ticket without resorting to the services of a grossly
overcharging ticket agency, but for many fixtures you can make credit
card bookings. Should you be thwarted in your attempts to gain admission,
you can often fall back on TV or radio coverage. BBC Radio 5 has live
commentaries on major sporting events, while TV carries live
transmission of the big international rugby and cricket matches, though
very little is available on the basic analogue stations, many pubs offer
free big-screen viewing of major sporting events to draw in custom
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