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chollerford

 
 
At CHOLLERFORD , around four miles north of Hexham, a bridge crosses the North Tyne river, overlooked by the swanky Swallow George Hotel (tel 01434/681611, ; £110-150). Two thousand years ago, the main river crossing was a little way downstream, half a mile west of present-day Chollerford, where Chesters Roman Fort (daily: Easter-Sept 10am-6pm; Oct 10am-5pm; Nov-Easter 10am-4pm; £2.90; EH), otherwise known as Cilurnum, was built to guard the erstwhile Roman bridge over the river. Enough remains of the original structure to pick out the design of the fort, and each section has been clearly labelled, but the highlight is down by the river where the vestibule, changing room and steam range of the garrison's bath-house are still visible. Back at the entrance, the museum has an excellent collection of Roman stonework, including Juno (now headless) in a delicately pleated dress standing on a cow, one of the finest pieces of statuary found along the Wall, and a notable sculpture of Mars from Housesteads.
 
 
 

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