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chetenham |
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Until the eighteenth century CHELTENHAM was like any other Cotswold
town, but then the discovery of a spring in 1716 transformed it into
Britain's most popular spa . During Cheltenham's prime, a century or so
later, the royal, the rich and the famous descended in hordes to take
the waters, which were said to cure anything from constipation to worms.
These days, while a fair proportion of Cheltenham's hundred thousand-odd
inhabitants are undoubtedly well-heeled, of Conservative persuasion (true
of the Cotswolds in general) and above retirement age, the town saves
itself from too smug an image by a lively and increasingly cosmopolitan
atmosphere. It's by far the best spot around for nightlife and makes a
convenient base for touring the area.
The focus of Cheltenham, the broad Promenade , sweeps majestically south
from the High Street, lined with the town's grandest houses, smartest
shops and most genteel public gardens. A short walk north of the High
Street, brings you to Pittville , which, planned as a spa town to rival
Cheltenham, was never completed and is now mostly parkland. Here you can
stroll along a few solitary Regency avenues and visit the grandest spa
building, the domed Pump Room (Mon & Wed-Sun 11am-4pm), whose chief
function nowadays is as a concert hall - though you can sample England's
only naturally alkaline water for free here. On your return route, the
Holst Birthplace Museum is worth a glance, at 4 Clarence Rd (Tues-Sat
10am-4pm; £2.50): the former home of the composer of The Planets , it
holds plenty of Holst memorabilia, including his piano, and also gives a
good insight into Victorian family life. Back in the centre, the well-set-out
Art Gallery and Museum on Clarence Stret (Mon-Sat 10am-5.20pm, Sun
2-4.20pm; free; ) marks the high point of Cheltenham. It's very good on
social history, with different eras represented by table displays of
personal belongings and a typical dinner of the time. There's also a
room dedicated to the Arts and Crafts Movement, containing several
pieces by Charles Voysey and Ernest Gimson, two of the period's most
graceful designers. Also on display is an array of rare Chinese ceramics
and works by Cotswold artists such as Stanley Spencer and Vanessa Bell.
The town is also a thriving arts centre, famous for its festivals of
jazz (April), classical music (July) and literature (October) - and then,
of course, there are the races. In addition, Coopers' Hill, six miles
southwest on the A46, is the venue for the region's most bizarre, and
established, competition. On the second bank holiday in May, a steep
section of the Cotswold escarpment hosts the annual Cheese Rolling
Festival , when a large Double Gloucester cheese is rolled down the one-in-two
incline and chased by dozens of drunken folk; the first to grab the
cheese is the winner.
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