|
| |
|
brixham |
| |
|
|
|
From Paignton, it's a fifteen-minute bus ride down to BRIXHAM , the
prettiest of the Torbay towns. Fishing was for centuries Brixham's life-blood,
and it still supplies fish to restaurants as far away as London. Among
the trawlers on Brixham's quayside is moored a full-size reconstruction
of the Golden Hind , the surprisingly small vessel in which Francis
Drake circumnavigated the world - it has no real connection with the
port, however. The harbour is overlooked by an unflattering statue of
William III, a reminder of his landing in Brixham to claim the crown of
England in 1688. From here, steep lanes and stairways thread up to the
older centre around Fore Street, where the bus from Torquay pulls in.
From the harbour, you can reach the promontory of Berry Head along a
path winding up from the Berry Head House Hotel . Fortifications built
during the Napoleonic wars are still standing on this southern limit of
Torbay, which is now a conservation area, attracting colonies of nesting
seabirds and affording fabulous views.
The town's tourist office (June to Sept daily 9.30am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm;
Oct Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.15pm; Nov-May Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.15pm; tel 0906/680
1268) is on the quayside, next to William's statue. For the views, the
best accommodation is on King Street, overlooking the harbour, such as
the Harbour View Hotel at no. 65 (tel 01803/853052; £40-50) and, two
doors down, the classier Quayside Hotel (tel 01803/855751, ; £70-90),
which has two bars and a restaurant. Away from the harbour, the
reputedly ghost-ridden Smugglers' Haunt on Church Hill (tel
01803/853050, ;£50-60) is creaky and cramped, but useful if everywhere
else is full. The nearest YHA hostel is four miles away outside the
village of Galmpton, on the banks of the Dart (tel 01803/842444), a one-and-a-half-mile
walk or bus ride from Churston Bridge - you can also get there on the
Paignton & Dartmouth Steam Railway.
When it comes to eating options , Brixham offers fish and more fish -
from the stalls selling cockles, whelks and mussels on the harbourside
to the moderately expensive Yardarms (tel 01803/858266; closed lunch &
all Mon, plus all Tues in winter), on Beach Approach off the quayside.
For a relaxed pint, try out the Blue Anchor on Fore Street, with coal
fires and low beams.
|
| |
|
