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bradford on avon

 
 
With its buildings of mellow auburn stone, reminiscent of the townscapes just over the county border in Bath and the Cotswolds, BRADFORD ON AVON is the most appealing town in the northwest corner of Wiltshire. Sheltering against a steep wooded slope, it takes its name from its "broad ford" across the Avon, though the original fording place was replaced in the thirteenth century by a bridge that was in turn largely rebuilt in the seventeenth century. The domed structure at one end is a quaint old jail converted from a chapel.

The local industry, based on textiles like that of its Yorkshire namesake, was revolutionized with the arrival of Flemish weavers in 1659, and many of the town's handsome buildings reflect the prosperity of this period. Yet Bradford's most significant building is the tiny St Laurence Church on Church Street, an outstanding example of Saxon architecture dating from about 700 AD. Wrecked by Viking invaders, and later used as a school and a simple dwelling, it was rehabilitated by a local vicar in 1856. Its distinctive features are the carved angels over the chancel arch.

Bradford's train station is on St Margaret's Street close to the town centre. The well-equipped tourist office is near the bridge at 34 Silver St (daily: April-Dec 10am-5pm; Jan-March 10am-4pm; tel 01225/865797, ). Bradford has a good range of accommodation , none more characterful than Bradford Old Windmill , a B&B up the hill at 4 Mason's Lane (tel 01225/866842; £50-60, £70-90), where an imaginative vegetarian menu is served house-party style (evening meals currently on Mon, Thurs & Sat). The lowest rates are given for anyone arriving after 6pm (assuming there's space); winter opening is irregular. Priory Steps , closer to the centre on Newtown (tel 01225/862230; £70-90), is a family home with bags of personality, well-prepared dinners and excellent views over a roofscape of weavers' cottages. For light lunches or cakes, try the Bridge Tea Rooms on Bridge Street, or Scribbling Horse at 34 Silver St. For alcohol or more substantial food, head for the Bunch of Grapes pub on Silver Street, also an evening venue for jazz, folk and blues.
 
 
 
 

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