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| The fishing village of BEER lies huddled within a small sheltered
cove between gleaming white headlands. A stream rushes along a deep
channel dug into Beer's main street, and if you can ignore the crowds in
high summer much of the village looks unchanged since the time when it
was a smugglers' eyrie, its inlets used by such characters as Jack
Rattenbury, who published his Memoirs of a Smuggler in 1837. The village
is best known for its quarries, which were worked from Roman times until
the last century: Beer Stone was used in many of Devon's churches and
other buildings. You can visit the complex of underground quarries (Easter-Sept
10am-5pm; Oct 11am-4pm; last entry 1hr before closing; £4.25) a mile or
so west of the village on a guided tour, along with a small exhibition
of pieces carved by medieval masons, among others. Take something warm
to wear. Bay View (tel 01297/20489; under £40), overlooking the sea on
Fore Street, is the best of the B&Bs and Beer's youth hostel is on a
hillside half a mile northwest, at Bovey Combe, Townsend (tel
01297/20296; closed Nov-March). For food , head straight to the Barrel
pub, on the main street, where the superb menu includes local delicacies
such as Devon oysters and home-smoked fish; there are imaginative
vegetarian options, too. |
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